Georgina Shaffer Table Saw August 13th, 2018 - 07:30:45
There are many hold-down and anti-kickback devices on the market. Some are good and some are a hazard in themselves. I had a large metal combination hold-down and anti-kickback device get caught in the saw blade, ripped off the fence to which it was clamped and flung into a plate glass door behind the saw. I heard it go whistling past my right ear. It missed me because I was standing, as always, well to the left of the saw blade.
The fence must be aligned so that the front of the blade and the rear of the blade are exactly the same distance from the fence at all settings. Once you have ascertained that the blade and fence are parallel to each other, you must cut some test boards to accurately set the fence to the scale. Set the fence to exactly 2" on the measuring scale. Rip a test board and measure it. Adjust the fence to the scale by moving the viewer's hairline left or right. Rip more boards until you have exact accuracy. The viewer through which you see the tape should be strong in magnification.
I'd like to take a minute to talk about the features that you should be looking for and what these features will mean to you after you unpack and set up your new table saw. These features include: motor horsepower, blade size, trunnion construction, tabletop flatness, tabletop size, arbor size and arbor bearings, sawdust extraction, ease of operation including raising, lowering and tilting the blade, tilt of the blade (left or right), the necessity of a magnetic switch and the importance of its location, ease of access to the interior of the cabinet, accuracy and ease of operation of the fence, the amount of rip space to the right and the left of the blade, safety features and table saw mobility around the shop. In addition to the table saw itself, you may want to construct an outfeed table around the back of the saw, if space permits. We'll talk about that, as well.
The rip fence guides the wood as it is being ripped (cut along its length) and can be positioned to any width of cut within the saw's range. The fence rides on fence rails attached to the front and rear edge of the table. Ideally, the system keeps the fence perfectly parallel to the plane of the blade, regardless of where the fence is positioned.
Also known as the open-stand saw, the contractor saw is heavier and more durable than the bench top saw. Its circular saw is mounted on a heavy table with an open set of legs. This type of saw is usually preferred for those who have a tool shed at home since it is moderately-priced and does not require any extra voltage than is provided in a regular outlet. While this model is heavier and less portable than the bench top model, the contractor table saw is still usually moved from job to job (most contractor saws come with wheel attachments to make this easier).