Irene Mendoza Table Saw August 18th, 2018 - 21:26:43
My ideal would be to never have a speck of dust reach the gears of my table saw trunnion and that all sawdust would be sucked away from the saw blade and out of the machine as soon as it was made. I would never need to clean out sawdust from inside the saw cabinet and the trunnion would always operate smoothly and easily. While I don't expect to ever see my dream fully realized, there are saws on the market today that closely approach this level of efficiency in sawdust extraction.
Your new saw must have a rip capacity equal or wider than the widest thing you will ever want to rip. Usually, a cabinet saw will have a rip capacity of around 30 inches or 50 inches. A large rip capacity to the right of the blade will require an extension table to support work wider than the cast iron table. Many times, this extension table is included with the saw or, alternatively, you can easily build you own. The fence must have a tube or rail long enough to achieve the maximum with you want to rip.
Saws specifically designed for hobbyists and home use are usually outfitted with motors under 3 HP and can be operated on standard 110 volt residential circuitry. In general, motors in this class are powerful enough for routine cutting of sheet goods and hardwoods up to 1'' thick. Professional-class saws, on the other hand, have motors in the 3- 5 HP range and require a 220 volt power supply. Motors in this category are designed to stand up to hours of continuous duty, and have enough power to cut thick, heavy hardwood stock without bogging down.
In the modern table saw, regardless of type, the depth of a cut is changed by adjusting the distance that the blade sticks out above the table surface. The more the blade protrudes from the table, the deeper the cut that is made in the material will be. Conversely, the less a blade protrudes from the table, the more shallow the cut that is made in the material being cut, will be.
If you consider that a sheet of plywood measures 48" in width, I would think that you might want to opt for a 50-inch rip as opposed to the slightly less expensive 30" rip capacity. You might want to rip off only one inch from that sheet of plywood and, while doing that, you will want the plywood to be fully supported. You might want to crosscut a sheet of plywood into two 48" pieces. You also should consider the rip space to the left of the blade: The wider, the better. Sometimes, you might want to accomplish tasks that require the fence to be put over to the left side of the blade.
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