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Rockwell Model 10 Table Saw

Selena Gordon Table Saw August 24th, 2018 - 09:15:16

The fence must be aligned so that the front of the blade and the rear of the blade are exactly the same distance from the fence at all settings. Once you have ascertained that the blade and fence are parallel to each other, you must cut some test boards to accurately set the fence to the scale. Set the fence to exactly 2" on the measuring scale. Rip a test board and measure it. Adjust the fence to the scale by moving the viewer's hairline left or right. Rip more boards until you have exact accuracy. The viewer through which you see the tape should be strong in magnification.

Some shops are small enough to require that all machines be able to roll around on the floor. The theory is that you pull out only the machine you are using at the time. In planning your shop, you should decide if your space requirements will mean that everything has to roll, some machines but not others have to roll or all machines can remain in their own positions permanently. Many cabinet saws offer the optional extra of some sort of mobility device. In the case of a table saw, you don't want it rolling around while you are pushing lumber through it and so the wheels must retract enabling the saw to rest on its cabinet base on the floor.

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In older table saw, altering the angle of the blade was used to increase or decrease the depth of the cut. Nowadays, there is still an adjustable angle control, but this is used merely to adjust the angle at which the material is cut, and is not used to decrease or increase the depth of cut being made.

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One drawback of lighter-weight table extensions is that they have less mass, and the overall mass of the saw is what soaks up the vibration crated by the motor and other moving parts. The added mass of heavy cast iron extension wings decreases vibration, which in turn helps the saw stay in calibration, and also helps it stay planted firmly on the shop floor. On less expensive saws, extensions made of stamped metal, or ones that aren't precision ground, can also compromise the overall flatness of the table surface.

If you consider that a sheet of plywood measures 48" in width, I would think that you might want to opt for a 50-inch rip as opposed to the slightly less expensive 30" rip capacity. You might want to rip off only one inch from that sheet of plywood and, while doing that, you will want the plywood to be fully supported. You might want to crosscut a sheet of plywood into two 48" pieces. You also should consider the rip space to the left of the blade: The wider, the better. Sometimes, you might want to accomplish tasks that require the fence to be put over to the left side of the blade.

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